That's Amore: Amatriciana

Over the next couple of weeks, we will continue tucking into the history behind the four classic pastas of Rome: amatriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara, and gricia. Last week, we greedily slurped up the history of cacio e pepe. This week, we are chowing down on a heaping, steamy, dreamy bowl of amatriciana.

Historians and chefs alike generally agree that pasta all’amatriciana clearly consists of bright jammy tomatoes, velvety and funky cured pork, and an avalanche of grated cheese, but that’s where the consensus ends. “As with every Roman recipe, l'amatriciana (or la matriciana to some) sparks lively discussions,” according to Katie Parla in Tasting Rome. Does amatriciana include garlic or onions? Amatriciana purists would swiftly and staunchly say no. But other chefs swear by the transformative addition of garlic, onions, or even shallots. Guanciale or pancetta? Chile or black pepper? Bucatini, a thicker spaghetti-like pasta, or bombolotti, a ridged, short, tubular pasta? Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano? And on and on. The variations of amatriciana are endless.

Much like its recipe, the origins of amatriciana are widely debated. Amatriciana is the descendent of pasta alla gricia, which was “considered a peasant food... initially prepared with guanciale and Pecorino Romano” as described on La Cucina Italiana. At the end of the 18th century, tomato was introduced into the Italian diet and without being dramatic, changed the course of Italian cuisine forever. "The first known written recipe of tomato sauce for pasta appears in the Italian cookbook L’Apicio moderno (The Modern Apicius) from 1790, by Roman chef Francesco Leonardi” as explained by Cook’s Illustrated. Where and when tomatoes were added to gricia to become amatriciana is debatable.

While amatriciana is famously one of the four classic pastas of Rome, Katie Parla notes “Amatrice, a village northeast of Rome, claims it originated there.” Echoing Tasting Rome, Cook’s Illustrated mentions that “Amatriciana was created and brought to Rome when, to escape the Apennines during winter, Amatrice shepherds came to sell their regional products.” As previously stated, amatriciana “also goes by the spelling “matriciana” in Rome. Some say this refers to the word matrice, which is the brand, or identification number that was pressed into the guanciale.”

It’s unclear where exactly pasta all’amatriciana originated from or even what the “right” recipe is; nevertheless, I encourage you to, when in the kitchen, roll up your sleeves, experiment with a few recipes, and figure out which version is your favorite.